Day 19: one Kangaroo Island

I just wrote a huge long post & then accidentally deleted it. It was good too. Grrrrrr. I'll try my best to recreate it...

Besides a badly stubbed toe & a crick in my neck, I'm feeling pretty good today. Yay for medicine & sleep!

Caught the bus to the ferry to Kangaroo Island this morning at 6am. I decided that all bus stations are weird, everywhere in the world, after a unkempt middle-aged man wrapped in a blanket paused in the doorway of the bathroom to flash me a toothless grin & an unintelligible comment.

Sat outside on the ferry & watched the swallows soar as we docked. Oh my how lovely. The KI bus was packed & the tour was more limited & sedentary than I'd prefer but I reminded myself I need to take it easy & I'm making the best of it.

On the bus, met a very nice retired couple from Greenville, SC who went to school at Auburn AND a guy whose partner goes to USC. Small world!

First stop was Seal Beach, where there were hundreds of Sea Lions sunning & feeding & riding the waves just feet from us. They're so cute; they wear such funny little smiles. Ladies, yet another animal we can be glad we're not - sea lions are preggers for 18 months & once they give birth, are knocked up again within 24 hours! Yikes.

After lunch at a cafe completely hidden from view by eucalyptus trees, we caught a birds of prey show, which was really quite interesting. Saw a bird camo'd as a tree (I wrote down the name in the post that got deleted! Argh!) with a wide beak like a frogs mouth. Saw the smallest falcon species and a white barn owl (pictured) that hopped from lap to lap & I got to pet it! So soft! Then the trainer brought out laughing kookaburras & I put on his glove & TWO of them perched on my arm. It was so cool. For the grand finale, he brought out an eagle (pictured) & we watched it stalk its prey & polish off a wallaby bone in a grand flourish of feathers.

Then into Flinders Ranges Natn'l Park to see the Remarkable Rocks, a granite formation that truly lives up to its name. They are unreal. They look like either some (sorry chick) alien rocks from mars or something Salvador Dali painted, come to life. Incredible. I took a bunch of pics & found a sad face in the rocks too. :)

Next was Admiral's Arch, which I would not have found (bc its a long windy path thru other beautiful stuff to get there) had it not been for our guide. Very pretty hidden rock arch with stalag...tites(?) hanging from the top & the brilliant sparkling water crashing through. All around it are brightly colored flowers & slabs of stone with New Zealand Fur Seals lounging about.

Everything here is so large, just an expanse of blue & green & brown; its impossible to capture. I'm just going to have to try & cradle it in my memory.

Final stop was a eucalyptus grove, where we saw a few koalas at a distance (that fuzzy blob to the left in the pic) and one kangaroo. I wasn't too worried at the limited sightings since I've gotten a few closer encounters with both already.

Unfortunately, since I could only take the day trip, I didn't get to see the penguins (Ron) but its ok bc I had that magical impromptu sighting in Melbs. :)

On the way back to the ferry, I had a fantastic conversation with a lovely woman from Adelaide. She told me all about her travels - fascinating - and I told her about the blog & my gratitude lists (hi Liz, if you're reading this!).

She brought to my attention yet another reason to identify with swallows & sparrows: they belong everywhere. They're ubiquitous birds; they make their homes all over the world. I love that.

After a dinner of the most delish salt & pepper prawns, its back to the hostel to pack & go to bed - I have to be up at 5:30 to begin my adventure into the outback!

Today I am so happy & grateful for:
~ getting to see KI even if just briefly
~ making connections with people
~ sharing the attitude of gratitude

Xo! n.

Day 18: follow the leader

So I woke up with a lot on my mind this morning & had to get out of bed & get things done so I could relax.

Took my meds with a famous Farmers Union Iced Coffee & banana bread, neither of which were enjoyable in the least. Didn't finish them. Applied for my tax ID number. Checked the status of a disputed (duplicate) charge on my credit card. Checked my bank account (better than I expected by this stage in the trip) & my phone bill. Checked my voicemail. Checked the status of my kangaroo island tour tomorrow & chatted with teeter on fb (which totally brightened my morning!!).

Then I checked in with the boss of me: gut, what should I do now?

My gut wanted a hot tea & a big, hot meal (its been a few days of just sandwiches & granola bars), and it urged me to go the opposite direction from where my brain wanted to go. So I went. Found a cute little cafe where I had a full aussie-style breakfast (eggs, toast oh so buttery, mushrooms, tomatoes, and thick slices of ham -mmmmm), tea, and even read a free magazine while I ate. It was exactly what I wanted.

Then I said ok gut, what next? It wanted more tea, which I got, no charge, and to walk over to the adelaide central market, which I did, and the sun broke through along with my smile.

I love markets in foreign places. I always think about the one on La Rambla in Barcelona & I have a framed pic at home of my mom in front of a meat stand in one in Paris. They're always full of colors & life & weird sights & smells. This one was no exception.

After walking past all types of sweets & fruits & every conceivable way to prepare kangaroo, I picked up 2 oranges & an apple for 70 cents (!!) and then stopped by a bread shop to pick up tonights dinner & tomorrows breakfast.

The girls working there asked where I'm from & were full of questions when I told them LA. They wanted to know all about the US - is it expensive? Is it stressful? We must seem really country to you... And what do you think of Australia? It was really fun talking to them & when I said bye my smile had widened. I feel like I'm getting back to my happy-solo-traveler self.

Then a quick stop off in my room to drop off my goodies & my sweatshirt (which, although coffee-stained & lookin' grey-ish, my gut has told me itd be a waste of money to wash it here), and felt like I wanted to take a spin on the free city bus.

Rode around the city & to the museum, which is supposed to have the best aboriginal exhibit. I had looked at it for about 10 mins when the museum closed. Waa waah.

I felt sneaky wandering around an empty museum as they slowly turned off the lights. :)

Side thought... Sometimes I think I still do want to be an archeologist, math or no math...

Caught the free bus again & realized that I'd stumbled across the main shopping district after seeing the Dr yesterday & enjoyed the window shopping - even got myself a cheap pair of shorts for the red center (weather's supposed to be 40+ C which is 100+ F) - but didn't include it in my blog. Tsk tsk. So yesterday wasn't all bad TV & bed, there was a bright spot. :)

I like adelaide. Its flowery & not too big, with beautiful old churches & buildings next to modern high-ish rises. Its a shame I haven't been able to see it til now, but better late than never.

The local theater is doing Steel Magnolias - I'd like to hear what their accents sound like!

Back at the hostel & after watching Neighbors (aussie soap) & my new fave aussie show, The 7pm Project, I was thrilled to see that Glee was next! AND the Aussie Beauty & The Geek! Aww its almost like I'm home with my girls!

...Except I'm drinking emergen-c, not wine, and I'm alone in a stinky hostel room. Ah well. :)

Ps- a couple days late but the last pic is for AB: my race hat for the Melbourne Cup (the holiday Tuesday) - fabulous!!

Today I'm so happy & grateful for:
~ meds working
~ inet access
~ letting go of the reins & giving my instincts control

Xo! n.

Guts.

I don't get it. I have travelled to the driest state in the driest continent in the world in the SUMMERTIME and yet, since I've been here its been rainy & cold. Really?? Really.

I'm starting to get the feeling there's some cosmic conspiracy to knock me on my ass. What's the lesson here? Don't push myself so hard to squeeze everything in? Don't be so stubborn with my money as to put myself in uncomfortable situations?

Actually, I think the lesson is to trust my gut instincts. The little voice that says "don't go out tonight, get some sleep" or "change rooms" or "wear a sweatshirt." The little voice that my brain is trained to rationalize away.

Over the past two weeks, in the interest of making the most of my time & money, I've skimped on the important stuff (where I sleep, what I eat) & splurged on stuff that seemed important (tours, extra activities, going out to solidify new friendships). And tho that stuff IS important, its not worth anything if I don't take care of myself first.

I've always done this. Anything that seems a luxury for me I see as wasteful. Remember the time I slept in the airport bc I missed my connecting flight & the hotel would've cost $70? I had the money, I just couldn't justify spending it on where I slept. Kind of ridiculous.

My gut was screaming at me to get a private room in a quieter hostel when I first arrived in Adelaide, but my mind said, ugh, what an inconvenience to pack everything up & move again.
I should've done it tho.

From now on I'm going to make a serious effort to listen to my gut & really take into account how I feel before making any decisions. And I'm going to put my well-being first.

Yall can hold me accountable. Here goes...

Day 17: healing, fo reals this time

Been laying in bed all morning, watching Australian TV. Its worse than American; half of the program is infomercials, and all anchors are attractive, witty & too joke-y to be giving the news. One of the morning show hosts is totally a Kristin Wig character. In a news report about an assault, she said, and I quote, "...the 54 year old man, known as Jimmy Two Hats, lives in a cliffside cave." I can't make this shit up. Hilarious.

I hate the pay phones here. They keep eating my money & not connecting me. It was a trial contacting my travel insurance yesterday, and today, after two tries at contacting a drs office specializing in travelers, I gave up & just walked over. Luckily they were able to take me within 30 mins.

Pictured is the map at the. Drs office - look how far I am from you!

Turns out it's sinusitis, my old arch nemesis. So I was kicking myself for not getting a flu shot & for not going to the Dr sooner, but I can give myself a break bc its not the flu & the Dr said she recommends people take over the counter meds for 5-7 days before prescribing anything, so going earlier wouldve just been a waste of money.

It sucks bc my whole reason for going to Adelaide was to do a two day trip to kangaroo island but now I don't think I can handle the adventure tour I was going to take. But I'm still going to do a day tour & keep my private room at the hostel so I can still sleep well.

Aw I ran into my Indian friend (can't spell his name, met on the bus from Melbs)as he was going out & he came back with some vicks vapo rub for me! How nice! Ah soooothing.

For tonight, its Oz TV, veg curry cup-o-noodles, medicine & snooze snooze snooze.

Today I'm so happy & grateful for:
~ a not too expensive Dr visit & prescription meds
~ the kindness of semi-strangers
~ my private recovery bungalow
~ all of your get well wishes - thank you so much!!!!!!!

Xo! n.

Day 16: my no good very bad day

I severely overestimated my health yesterday. After a day of rock climbing, I hung out with new friends til way too late last night. Stupid.

Also I overestimated my ability to withstand a long period of time in far from ideal & far from comfortable situations. Adelaide hostel = foul. The showers are like in a gym - one thin curtain separating you from the common area & nowhere to put your clothes to keep them dry. By "linens included" they meant you get ONE flat sheet. That's it. No fitted sheet, no blanket. I happened to bring a little airplane blanket so I thought I'd be ok. Nope. I was so uncomfortable & felt so sick - it was miserable.

Health: One step forward, two steps back.

After a day of dozing, tossing & turning, payphones eating my money, pharmacies being closed early, and other rotten annoyances, I finally caved & shelled out the money for a private room.

Best idea ever.

When I walked in & saw the double bed with its comforting white sheets AND blanket, its TWO pillows, the two FREE towels with a little soap & sewing kit & shampoo on them like in a real hotel, the mini-fridge and the TV that gets 3 channels, I started to cry. Not like my eyes welled up, no, I sobbed big gasping tears of relief.

If you think that's overly dramatic, let me just say, it is the lonliest, most desperate feeling to be alone in a foriegn place, sick, surrounded by strangers.

At least now I have a space of my own & I can sleep all day if that's what it takes to finally shake this thing.

Today I am so grateful & happy for:
~ a blanket
~ the grocery store carries medicine & was open on this holiday
~ sleep sleep & more sleep

Xo! n.

Day 15: limitless sky

Wow 15 days already! Slept fast & deep in a silent, dark, comfortable room & feel so much better today. The sun is coming out & I'm in a great mood.

First stop, bright & early, was Reid Lookout. Beautiful wide empty expanse. Mountians in the distance had clouds caught on their peaks, which looked like the softest snow. Can't describe the majesty of it & I know my pictures are poor representations. Theres going to be a brilliant blue sky today & with the separating clouds, it's upstaging everything else.

Next: Mackenzie Falls. Handsome smooth black rock with streams of water frothing over. I climbed on rocks & checked out caterpillars like a curious 5 year old. This morning had a tinge of autumn that reminded me of Maryland, growing up, but its shaping up to be a hot day.

Hiked up to the top of Hollow Mountain. It wasn't as much hiking as scrambling over rocks & boulders. Very fun. We even had to crawl through a cave! At the pinnacle, it was a 360 degree panoramic view of trees & mountains & farmland. There isn't really a path, so going down it looked dangerous - its steeper than I realized on the way up! Good fun, glad I did it.

Stopped for lunch I Horsham & had a famous Australian meat pie (pictured) - eh not so great. I ordered beef & veg but I got beef & bacon and it was a bit greasy. I feel kinda gross after eating it; got an apple & an orange to try & appease my unhappy stomach.

Snoozed on the bus til we crossed the border into Southern Australia & it is hot hot HOT. Apparently, SA is the driest state on the driest continent in the world. And I decided to visit it in summer. :)

In Bordertown, we saw a fenced in area with genetically modified white kangaroos. They serve no purpose except bringing tourists in & they can never survive out of captivity. They don't even look very healthy. It's really sad. If you're ever here, please don't support this pointless disturbance of nature.

Two more hours on the bus til Adelaide. Talk to you then... Zzzzzz...

Day 14: kanga town

I survived the creepy night of creepiness with no incident besides my intermittent coughing.

But although I got 8 hrs of sleep, I was still knackered (thats right) when I got up at 5am. Com'on cold, go away already!!

Hopped on the bus to Loch Ard Gorge, the site of a famous shipwreck. our guide Jen told us the story of the only two survivors, Tom & Eva; its better than titanic! Saw Mutton Bird Island (pictured), where the boat crashed & sank, tragically just barely off the coast. Saw the two caves the two survivors took shelter in - they don't look very welcoming - the graves of the wreck's casualties, and some coastal rock formations including the island arch, salt & pepper shakers (fka "the tits" ha ha), and the razorback. Very pretty, very lonely place, especially with the sun shrouded by low grey clouds.

Then saw the rock formation London Bridge which has, ironically, fallen down. Its really sad how many of the natural formations here have crumbled. I know its mainly bc it's sandstone & the water erodes the base of the rocks, but I'm sure our environmental impact doesn't help.

Walked along the beach at the Bay of Martyrs, which was really nice - fun rocks to climb on & soft warm sand, even on this cold day. I was the only one who took her shoes off!! Crazy Europeans!

Then saw the Bay of Islands. All of this feels more authentically Australian to me; the beaches are void of people, all orange rocks & wild waves.

I've found I'm of a solitary nature when it comes to the ocean. While everyones chatting about random things, I just want to wander off alone & take it all in. Its impossible to describe the enormity of these rocks & the power of the waves around them. I think I'm starting to get a taste of Oz's outback.

Next we drove up into the Grampians Natn'l Park - one of the oldest mtn ranges in the world. Did you know Australia's native Aboriginies are the oldest surviving race in the world? Crazy.

The group went for a 2 & 1/2 hour hike up to the summit but I stayed behind. It was a very adult decision; I really wanted to see it but knew I shouldn't push myself. I'd rather miss out on one hike now than get sicker & lose a week of activities. Turned out to be a good choice - I fell right asleep & slept right up until 10 minutes of them arriving back at our cabin. Only woke up then bc I set an alarm, so I'm sure my body needed it & I'll probably still sleep well tonight.

They all said it was a beautiful view but a very exhausting climb, which makes me positive I did the right thing. Yay naps!

Halls Gap is the mountain town we're staying in tonight & apparently from dusk on, it is overrun with kangaroos! Time to go find some...

SO MANY kangaroos!!! Three times as many as the last sighting. Just mobs & mobs of them hanging out in peoples backyards. Amazing. We saw lots of does with joeys in their pouches & a couple joeys climbing in & out of the pouches & fussing about. It was like a kid digging around in moms handbag & mom says either settle down or stay out & quit looking for sweets, eat your dinner!

Also saw some wild emu. They're bigger than the kangaroos. We could get very close to the roos (females only, the males are more aggressive) so I got some great pics & videos on my camera. :)

Had a nice communal dinner & listened to the brits talk about reality TV (I thought Americans were bad - nowhere near!); chatted & got to know my bus mates a bit better.

I kind of love this little town; the cabins are cozy, rustic & framed by the mountains. The birds are going to sing me to sleep tonight. :)

Today I am so happy & grateful for:
~ being responsible for my health
~ eating a salad finally
~ quiet places to sleep

Xo! n.